old size radiators (imperial) how to change to new size (metric)

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2015

If you wish to change old radiators and discover you cannot find the same size do not despair.

In Britain like everything else radiators came in imperial sizes(inches) but are now sold in metric (centimetres). The changeover was in the 80s so if you wish to change your radiators rather than lift floors ,cut carpets ,drain down heating system and shift pipes the easy way is to measure the length and height of your old radiator and then get the closest metric radiator that is SMALLER than the old radiator on length. Then all plumbing/do it yourself shops sell radiator pipe extensions which then can be adapted to make up the difference. There are several different types ones which can just pull out to the needed length(this type is unreliable and prone to leaking) others can be bought in lots of different sizes are solid metal and you just buy the one which is exactly the length needed and then fit to the radiator ,another type is solid metal and is cut down to the correct length and finally a 15mm male straight could be added to the radiator and then copper pipe to the correct length and then another fitting depending on the control valves sizes fitted on to the control valve. Plumbers tape (otherwise known as white tape or ptfe tape needs to be added to the threads of the pipe extensions in a good amount . The old and new radiator brackets will almost certainly be different and will need to be changed which would require new fixings to the wall also depending on what your wall is made of. Great care MUST be taken to insure the brackets are solid on the wall because when filled the radiator will be heavy, if the brackets come of the wall the pipes will burst causing SERIOUS damage to the house. You then open both valves check for leaks and AIR the radiator be opening the airing pin (always at the top of radiator) with a airing key until water comes out of the pin (do not remove pin from radiator only open one or two turns as when the water comes out the pin needs closing fast or black water will go over the floor ,walls etc.) If you have a new boiler the pressure gauge on boiler will drop and the boiler pressure will need to be topped up ,normally by a valve which looks like a washing machine valve being turned one quarter turn(however there are other types). The pressure should be between one and one and a half bar no more ,take great care to MAKE SURE you have completely turned of the valve afterwards or the boiler will become over pressurized. Or if it is a traditional system you just open the airing pin and a tank in the loft will fill up by itself.


I hope this information has been of some  use and of course your local Aberdeen plumber with twenty five experience will be more than happy to undertake the work for you.

electric shower not working tips on what to do next

Wednesday, May 20th, 2015

If your electric shower (normally a white plastic box on wall) is not working it is normally not worth repairing unless it is only a few years old and did not cost more than £250.

Electric showers do not tend to last more than ten years at most and quite often last a lot less than that. In most cases the shower manufacture is needed to repair the shower instead of a plumber (you could well have to wait a week or two) and they would then only guarantee the part that has been changed so the shower could fail with another problem weeks or months later. A new shower would work straight away and if it is close to the old shower would take around a hour to fit. Also the shower would have a manufactures warranty (mira and triton showers have  TWO years).

However electric showers are piped and wired differently (wire and pipe are not in a standard place)so the secret is to either get the exact same shower or to check the position of old shower pipe and wire and then get another shower with the pipe and wire in the same place (research on internet or remove the cover which is not recommended if you do not know what you are doing due to the real chance of being electrocuted (plumbers know the pipe and wire positions with experience )the reason being that a hole would have to made in the tiling or aqua panel to shift the pipe and wire which could well be a big hole. Also showers have different kilowatt ratings (7.5kw to 10.5kw)and if you get a new shower with a different kilo watt rating a electrician WILL have to change the circuit breaker to match the new size. Therefor with pipe , wire , fuse boxes having to be checked , water to house switched of and drained ,water connection maybe being altered It is not recommended for a d.i.yer to attempt to change a shower themselves due to risk of flooding ,electrical fires or electrocution .

I hope this information has been of some use and of course your local ,friendly, Aberdeen plumber would be more than happy to help you out.


Thursday, May 14th, 2015

Do you have noisy plumbing or pipes driving you mad here are some likely causes and solutions

Noisy plumbing is caused by three main causes

1 Excessive pressure, REMEDY  turning down the mains stopcock may help but the stopcock does not control pressure it controls flow. Fitting a adjustable pressure reducing valve WILL fix the problem which your local Aberdeen plumber will be more than happy to do.

2 Pipes not being  clipped properly REMEDY add more pipe clips however pipes will be under floors, in walls etc  so extra pipe clipping will generally not be possible ,however fitting a adjustable pressure reducing  valve WILL likely fix the problem which your local Aberdeen plumber will be more than happy to do.

3 Faulty plumbing equipment ie toilet/tank ballcocks being the main culprit or faulty taps REMEDY identity the faulty equipment and replace(it is most likely to be a toilet ballcock) which your local Aberdeen plumber will be more than happy to do.

I hope this information has helped and if you are unsure  or do not feel confident then feel free to contact your fast and friendly local Aberdeen plumber on 01224969603 or info@aberdeenplumbingservices.co.uk

how to Fix a dripping tap

Tuesday, May 12th, 2015

There is nothing more annoying than a dripping tap here are some tips on how to repair a dripping tap.

First of all is to identify what type of tap it is there are three main TYPES


tap washer (the traditional tap ,will normally have tap heads to switch on and of)a separate hot and cold and the tap heads will turn approximately three complete turns from fully on to fully of.

There are lots of sizes of tap washers so you can buy a selection box of washers but this would have around a hundred or so washers in it or take apart tap and then go of looking for the correct size of washer. Also tap washer tap insides can be prone to locking up when they get old and a pair of new insides can be bought(they are commonly called tap revivers which most d.i.y shops and all plumbing shops will sell)however older taps can be different sizes with different threads to the new taps which are now normally one size.


Ceramic discs ,will have a separate hot and cold ,will normally have levers and will do a nighty degree turn from fully on to fully of. With this type approximately half of the taps take one common part to fix them (the whole tap inside part needs changed no repair can be done to a faulty one) and the other half need  unique parts made by the tap maker (you have to identify the exact make and model and the parts still available).



This type the parts inside have to be replaced with new and the part has to come from the maker (the exact make and model has to be identified and the parts still available) it is quite common with this type to just replace the tap with a new tap.

I hope this information has been of some use and if you are not sure or do not feel confident then your local Aberdeen plumber with twenty five years experience would more than happy to fix your tap for you (no job to small).


Saturday, May 9th, 2015

Is your toilet slow to fill ,noisy filling ,overflowing ,if yes here are some handy tips to change the ballcock.

First the water needs to be turned of, by law there should be a valve sited near to the toilet. However there may not be and the whole house or the water tank in the loft may need to be turned of.

It could be a traditional valve which works by turning the valve as far clockwise as it will go (approx. seven turns from fully on to fully of) or it could be the new iso valves which are turned on and of with a flat head screwdriver. Sometimes the iso valve or traditional valve when they are old develop a leak after turning them of and them back on which could lead to them needing changed..

A iso valve is turned ONLY one quarter turn from fully on to fully of  a simple way to understand is if the valve is vertical then the screwdriver slot should be EXACTLY horizontal and if the valve is horizontal the slot should be EXACTLY vertical.

Now we need to check if the toilet is switched of remove the toilet lid it may just lift of  but may of come of six inches or so and then a clip pushed out to remove a cable or if it is a push button type the button may need turned by hand anti clockwise or if there are two buttons one button may need pushed down and a screwdriver used to lift up the other button out of the way and then used to lift the other button out of the way then a screw under the buttons to be unscrewed (anti clockwise). Once you have the lid of place it very carefully on the floor.

If you are in any doubt  very carefully put slight lifting force on the lid ,the insides to the toilet on push button toilets are very easily broken.

Now push down the float only a few drops should come out and then stop ,if the water is not switching of then the control valve may be faulty. All the water needs to be taken out of the cistern I use a hose to syphon the water out (suck on end of hose then stick in toilet) or use a sponge as any water left in cistern will spill on to the floor.

Now we need to undo the pipe from the ballcock I just use a adjustable spanner (clockwise to loosen ) and then undo the ballcock from the cistern (some modern cisterns require the whole cistern to be removed from the toilet to change the ballcock).

Now put in the new ballcock and tighten back up and fit pipe and tighten back up. Most of the time  The new ballcock length should be the same as the old ballcock but not always if this was the case the pipework would now be to short or to long and would have to be corrected. The washer on the pipe should be checked (usually a red fibre washer)if it does not look in good condition replace with a new one,  any plumbing or diy shop will have them. Or remove the old washer and add a good amount of white tape(other wise known as ptfe tape or plumbers tape).Care must be taken to make sure both the ballcock nut and pipe nuts are put on to the correct threads as being plastic it is very, very easy to cross thread .If the ballcock is cross threaded do not attempt to cut of the damaged part it will not seal,  a new ballcock is the only way to fix it.

Now you need to check the float in the ballcock can freely move up and down on its on accord. Now the water can be turned on very slowly and a check for leaks carried out. If you are leak free check where the ballcock water height stops there is always a line inside the cistern where the water level should be .Now replace the lid.


 I hope this has helped if you get stuck or do not feel confident enough I will be more than happy enough to repair your toilet for you in a fast and friendly manner by your local Aberdeen plumber with twenty five years experience ON 01224969603/07730160111

Common Problems with Plumbing a Washing Machine (or dishwasher!)

Thursday, April 9th, 2015

plumbing washing machine and dishwasher aberdeenThinking about plumbing a washing machine by yourself without experience?


Advice from your local Aberdeen plumbing experts


Basics on washing machine installation and removal

Installing a washing machine in most circumstances is a straight forward task, however sometimes there are rare occurrences which makes a relatively intuitive process a little more challenging. Continue reading “Common Problems with Plumbing a Washing Machine (or dishwasher!)” »